An “extreme lacing” for those who want what others wouldn't attempt. The laces weave up and down between rows, creating an intricate mesh.
• Begin straight across on the inside (grey section) and out through the bottom eyelets.
• Both lace ends angle upwards to about the level of the next pair of eyelets, forming “empty loops” above before angling back down and crossing each other in the middle of the shoe.
• Both ends continue angling down to the level of the current pair of eyelets, looping around the shoelace at that position. On this first pass, they will loop under the bottom straight section, but on subsequent passes they will loop through the empty loops from previous passes.
• Both ends then angle back up and feed in through the next higher set of eyelets. Don't pull tight because the slack will be picked up on the next pass.
• Repeat the above steps to create another set of empty loops above, then loop through the loops below, then feed out through the next higher set of eyelets.
• Continue weaving up and down between pairs of eyelets, at each pass alternating between feeding in or feeding out through the next higher set of eyelets.
• At the top of the shoe, the lace ends once again pick up the empty loops from the previous pass before meeting in the middle.
Must be kept tied
32% shorter ends
Once completed, the woven bits must be carefully adjusted to make them even, then the ends tied with a conventional shoelace knot to hold everything in position. Like Checkerboard Lacing, this method is not really designed to be tightened or loosened, effectively forcing the shoe to be used as a “slip-on”.
Shoelace Lengths for Woven Lacing
|Pairs of eyelets:||2||3||4||5||6||7||8|
|Length needed:||75 cm
Longer shoelaces needed than those for basic Criss Cross Lacing.
Shorter ends if existing shoelaces are re-used (−32% on average).
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